This week at the SAQ #5

The Menetou-Salon appellation often lives in the shadow of the other great central Loire terroirs: Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. In all three cases, Sauvignon Blanc dominates, but since the Menetou-Salon vineyard produces eight times less than the Sancerre region, it is less popular and less common at the SAQ.

It is regrettable that despite a history as remarkable as its terroir, the appellation remains often ignored. Indeed, in the 15th century, the lord of Menetou-Salon, Jacques Coeur, played an incredible role in the development of French trade and brought such wealth and reputation to the region that the wine of Menetou-Salon was quickly placed on the table of Charles VII and his court.

And nowadays, we find this richness and mastery of the grape variety in this 2022 vintage, which was a generous year in terms of sunshine for the Sauvignon Blancs of the central Loire. With this Chavet wine, you get a Sauvignon with substance on the palate, all supported by the characteristic freshness of the region. A few white fruits and ripe citrus will make you rethink your impressions of the grape variety.

The Clos de Coquin, with its 2.8 hectares of Kimmeridgian soils, is vinified in temperature-controlled stainless steel, followed by six months of aging on fine lees and 500L barrels for 1/3 of the cuvée.

• · To pair it with: Soft-ripened cheeses at the end of the meal, like a local brie or even a camembert,
• · For the anecdote: In Old French, ‘coquin’ land meant land that was ungrateful and difficult to work or manage,
• · To better understand the birth of the appellation: Jean-Christophe Ruffin’s magnificent novel ‘The Extraordinary Journey of Jacques Coeur’,
• ·  To compare: From the same producer, an entry-level option, possibly for aperitif, Menetou-Salon ‘La Côte’ 2022, available at the SAQ (974477)

Few Chilean wines are currently offered by the glass on serious restaurant menus. This Pipeño was recently served by the glass at Les Cavistes (Louis-Jacques Bleau is always serious when it comes to El País...) and can now be found as an excellent springtime discovery in the SAQ network.

There are several elements to dissect in this wine. First, the País grape variety, which was allegedly introduced in the 16th century by Spanish conquistadors. Genetically similar to the Listan Prieto of the Canary Islands (a supply port for Spanish ships), it was dominant in Chilean viticulture until the arrival of European migrants who preferred the grape varieties from their respective countries.

Next, the term Pipeño, which refers to "pipas" (traditional vats used before the introduction of barrels in Chile), but also to a method where the harvest is crushed and then destemmed on a metal sieve before finishing in a concrete "lagar".

The result in this cuvée with País (80%) as ‘Pipeño’ and Carignan (20%) in whole clusters? A pale red with a fickle, yet delicious and fruity character. An easy-drinking wine, much like a modern, unpretentious Gamay or Trousseau. A thirst-quenching wine with character. Buy it without hesitation for the beautiful days ahead.

• · To pair it with: A slightly fatty sausage as an aperitif or while preparing the meal,
• · For the anecdote: We owe the renaissance of País at the start of this century to French sommelier and winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt,
• · To better understand these forgotten grape varieties: Keep an eye out for our next tasting session on the subject by joining our reminder list,
• ·  To compare: If you want to take the Chilean experience even further, from the same Maule region, the Pa-Tel 2021, a blend of 85% El País, Sémillon, Riesling, and Moscatel, available at the SAQ (15097693)

With its 220 hectares under cultivation, the Marcillac appellation rarely makes headlines. It must be remembered that the South-West long suffered from Bordeaux intimidation and could only sell its wines locally, which does not help with viticultural emancipation...

The result is indigenous grape varieties with poetic names, but little known elsewhere. Whether it’s Loin de l'Oeil, Ondenc, Prunelard, or Braucol, you are often in discovery mode with the wines from this appellation.

This Fer Servadou (also called Mansois or Braucol), however, is a staple of the state monopoly, with a six-digit product code that doesn't make it any younger. Year after year, we find this wine, whose first harvest dates back to 1964. The Teulier family, with their 34 hectares, is a pillar of the appellation and offers us a wine at the opposite end of the spectrum from the harsh, tannic wines associated with the ‘old’ South-West.

Here we have crunchiness, intense color, and aromas reminiscent of Cabernet Franc. Black fruits, violet, licorice, and spices are supported by great freshness.

An excellent example of what a region can produce qualitatively while remaining in anonymity.

• · To pair it with: Butcher's sausages on the BBQ for an easy Tuesday night,
• · For the anecdote: Braucol, from the Carmenet family, is said to have originated in the Basque country and traveled on the back of monks on the road to Compostela until it reached Madiran, where it took root,
• · To better understand these forgotten grape varieties: Keep an eye out for our next tasting session on the subject by joining our reminder list,
• · To compare: You couldn't make this up, two Marcillacs are arriving this Thursday at the SAQ... The second, which we suspect is a bit more ‘rustic’, is the Fer de Soif 2022, also at $19 (11154558)