This week at the SAQ #24

Some white wines are timeless and have the unique ability to transport us and take our senses on a journey. Fans of Grenache of all styles and shades are generally very receptive to this complex grape variety when crafted in specific places by determined individuals.

This is the case for the Jonquères Doriola family, who have been winemakers since 1485 in the Roussillon terroir. Present in several of the region's appellations, they work here on an estate overlooking Collioure and the Mediterranean. The blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne from steep brown schist soils (at 231 meters, in case that wasn't clear...) is meticulously harvested, delicately pressed, and aged in oak barrels for six months.

With its pale gold color, supported by intense aromas, Altitude offers flavors of vanilla-scented stone fruits on the palate with a taut finish. Be careful not to serve it too cold, and if the occasion allows, decant it for greater harmony. If the budget permits, a few bottles will improve with a cellar term as long as the next Democratic term and can be enjoyed in 2030!

• To pair with it: roasted monkfish with jus and braised fennel,
• For the anecdote: we recommend a visit to the Château de Corneilla del Vercol, owned by the family since 1485, but dating back to the 13^th century...
• To better understand Roussillon: keep an eye out for our workshop on the subject this autumn!
• If Grenache Blanc ever moves you, this Côtes-du-Roussillon ‘Altaïr’ 2021, Mas Amiel will also be for you. Available at the SAQ for $37 (15158311)

In our market, we rarely come across Rioja white wines made from Maturana Blanca. It must be said that with only 38 hectares planted (i.e., 0.06% of Rioja), it would be difficult to do better. Low-yielding and sensitive to phytosanitary diseases, this grape variety almost disappeared with the phylloxera epidemic of the 19th century. In 1995, the Ijalba winery undertook the task of resurrecting the Maturana and bottled its first vintage in 2005. The appellation recognized the value of the endeavor in 2007, when Maturana could finally be classified as DOCa in the same way as the Viura and Verdejo of the region.

The Ramirez family behind this cuvée is part of a new generation of winemakers highlighting the terroir by working with rescued indigenous varieties, all within an organic approach. On their 50 hectares in the village of Urunuela, they remain faithful to the land and its history, benefiting from the region's heritage while continuing to enrich it and reflect on its future.

And what about the wine? Maturana from vines over 50 years old, with a golden-yellow color, an intense nose of citrus and quince, and a round, yet naturally acidic palate characteristic of the variety. It can easily be aged for two or three years for a very interesting tasting experience!

• To pair with it: baby potato salad with smoked salmon, capers, shallots, and homemade mayo...
• For the anecdote: despite the difference in spelling, you will have guessed that Serezhade refers here to the tales of the 1001 Nights, and that the ultimate aspiration of this wine will be to bring a smile back to a cuckolded sultan...
• To better understand Rioja: keep an eye out for our workshop on the subject this autumn!
• A few bottles of Garnacha 1921, 2020 from the same winery are still available at the SAQ for $27 (14013339)

With a history dating back to 1552, the Rebourgeon-Mure estate is not one for experimentation... David and his father Daniel Rebourgeon work seven hectares of vines in the Pommard, Volnay, and Beaune appellations.

Maison Dieu is a "lieu-dit" (vineyard plot) adjacent to the Pommard appellation. The name comes from an old 17^th-century hospice that welcomed pilgrims on their way to Compostela. The site was considered worthy of being part of the Pommard appellation until 1938, when the classification of village, regional, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru appellations left it behind.

This Pinot Noir, crafted with respect for the soil and Terra Vitis certification, is vinified in a classic manner with destemming and delicate pressing for gentle extraction. Aged in barrels for texture finesse and balance, it highlights the Morello cherry and blackcurrant notes typical of Pinot Noir when it is generous and affable.

• To pair with it: roasted poultry with crispy skin and, why not, a creamy aligot,
• For the anecdote: it was in 1552 that the Rebourgeon ancestor, Jean Bourgogne (yes, indeed...) acquired some vines in Pommard following a lease with the Sainte-Marguerite de Bouilland abbey, northwest of Beaune,
• To better understand Burgundy: keep an eye out for our workshop on the subject this autumn!
• If the Pommard appellation makes your heart beat faster, this week the winery is also releasing its Pommard 2021 at the SAQ for $83 (15024953)