This week at the SAQ #25

We rarely come across 6-year-old Muscadets on the monopoly's shelves, and even fewer that can boast two Châteaux in their title... The reason is quite unique for this Château de la Turmelière, which is located in one of the appellation's 10 communal crus: the Château Thébaud cru.

The Thébaud cru is the smallest of the recent classifications and features a granodiorite soil (similar to granite) on both sides of the Maine river. The uniqueness of L’Orée is that it is only produced in the best vintages, aged for 43 months on its fine lees (the minimum for the crus classification is 24), and finally held at the estate for another 3 years before being marketed.

The result is a Melon de Bourgogne that is more aromatic and round than one might expect from the appellation. With floral notes (cypress...) and candied lemon, it has great depth and will be able to age for a few more years, even if it is very enjoyable in the coming months.

• To pair with it: roasted white fish with lemon butter.
• For the anecdote: Bernard Chéreau was one of the first to advocate for aging on lees in the 70s, to such an extent that the method became a label mention in 1977.
• To better understand the Loire: keep an eye out for our workshop on the matter this autumn!
• If you happen to be near Repentigny..., you could dare to compare it with the 2018 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Château Thébaud from Jérémy Huchet, who probably doesn’t live in a château... Available at the SAQ for $30 (14556202)

When your father is Georges Descombes (an accomplice of the "Gang of Four" with Lapierre, Breton, and Foillard), you can be forgiven for a name like Kewin. Since 2013, following in his family's footsteps, he has been producing organic and/or natural wines, with indigenous yeasts, semi-carbonic maceration, and very few, if any, inputs.

It must be said that for the last fifty years, the region has been at the forefront of these "obscure" practices pioneered by Jules Chauvet and adopted by a multitude of winemakers. Whether or not you are a fan of organic and natural wines, it is difficult to deny the contribution of people like the Descombes family in repositioning and changing perceptions regarding Beaujolais. Let it be known, drinking "bojo" these days is trendy...

And the Gamay produced here? It comes from old vines in a terroir bordering Brouilly that belongs to the family, resulting in an elegant, silky wine with aromas dominated by strawberry and raspberry. Round and delicious as it should be, we appreciate the time in barrels to polish the acidity typical of natural wines.

• To pair with it: roasted chicken with buttered green beans.
• For the anecdote: the birth of Beaujolais Nouveau dates back to 1951, when a decree stated that AOC wines could not be sold until December 15. The complaints from unions, in need of francs, led to "certain wines" being allowed to be sold without waiting for that date.
• To better understand Beaujolais: keep an eye out for our workshop on the matter this autumn!
• If you want to stay within the family, the Beaujolais-Villages ‘Fou du Beaujo’ from Damien Coquelet will help you discover Kéké’s brother-in-law... Available at the SAQ for $23 (12604080)

Chianti wines come in many forms. From a simple Chianti for an inexpensive wine, to a more precise and serious Classico, to a Riserva that has spent two years in barrels, it’s easy to get lost. Wanting to add another layer, the consortium introduced the Gran Selezione designation in 2014.

Just as much a DOCG as the other Chianti appellations, it requires 30 months of aging (including time in barrels) for grapes that are at least 80% Sangiovese, all from the estate's own vineyards. Furthermore, a "rigorous" selection process applies to the tasting phase, and it is claimed that not all harvests qualify as Gran Selezione. In short, this is serious Chianti, and this Valiano offers incredible value for money.

6.38 is the number of hectares dedicated to the estate's Gran Selezione, with Sangiovese (90%) and the remainder Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in barrels for 18 months. Refined notes of red fruits and spices are supported by softened tannins. The finish is long, spicy, and hints at anise. You’ll want to stock up for lively post-ski evenings.

• To pair with it: an aged cheddar at the end of the meal, to defy the proponents of white wine and cheese...
• For the anecdote: in 2027, Gran Selezione wines will require a minimum of 90% Sangiovese in the blend and will no longer allow international grape varieties.
• To better understand Sangiovese: keep an eye out for our "cherry on top" happy hour this autumn!
• 2019 was an impeccable vintage in Chianti, but 2015 was even better, and you can still find a few bottles of this Castello Fonterutoli 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG, Marchesi Mazzei for $35 at the SAQ (15278806)