autriche

This week at the SAQ #1

Dégustateur de vin

Drinking well is simple; you just need to know the right wine merchant...

Baudelaire

Weinviertel DAC Grüner Veltliner 2022, Gruber Röschitz, Austria / $19

The Monday night bottle

The Cavistes are well acquainted with this Grüner. We imported it through our agency, Jérobaom, once before leaving it to Alternative, which has been doing an excellent job of marketing it ever since.


The Gruber family has been working the vineyard in the village of Röschitz in the Weinviertel for over 200 years. A young generation of three Grubers is now in charge of this organic estate, which produces an impressive variety of vintages. From Riesling to St-Laurent, including Pinot Noir and Zweigelt, 80 hectares are being put to use across 180 sites in the village, which is quite exceptional for the region.


In all their vintages, you will find phenolic maturity supported by healthy fruit, and controlled vinification that yields wines with character and expression, featuring a pleasant vegetal typicity.


Vines aged 10 to 30 years grown on loess and granite, vinified in stainless steel, with classic aromas of yellow apple, orange zest, and acacia honey. On the palate, a fine acidity supported by a touch of honeydew melon leading to a mineral finish.


A superb quality-to-price ratio under $20.

  • To pair with it: Store-bought parmesan fondue (it is Monday, after all...) on nice slices of fresh tomato with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
  • A little anecdote: The small critters on the house labels are a graphic representation of the indigenous yeasts present on the grapes, and not a nod to Élise Gravel...
  • To better understand Austria: Keep an eye out for our next tasting workshop on the subject.
  • For comparison: Our favorite producer from the Weinviertel (on Königsberg soils, nonetheless...) available at Les Cavistes.

Valpolicella DOC Duca Fedele 2022, Massimago / $22

The guilty pleasure

In the heart of the Mezzane valley, we find this organic vineyard, a standard-bearer for this new generation of producers who highlight both wine and wine tourism.

A few kilometers down the road from the Soave Castle, in the Valpolicella appellation area, lies Massimago and its 28 hectares of vines spread across 13 plots, alternating red clays and limestone that provide minerality and freshness.


It is this complexity of soils and minimalist vinification that allow the Duca Fedele to let the Corvina (the majority component), Corvinone, and Rondinella express themselves, presenting us with a Valpolicella that is crisp with red cherries, herbaceous, yet velvet-smooth. In the glass, it shows a radiant ruby color typical of young Corvina; on the nose, after some aeration, the spices and fruit are charming. The palate is lively and long, with little to no tannins.


Camilla Rossi Chauvenet, in charge of the estate for over 15 years, advocates a modern and organic approach that has since dusted off this domain, which has been in place since 1883. She produces two ranges of wine: a more traditional one highlighting a classic style, and a 'bolder' range, which includes this organic and less interventionist Valpolicella.


Just stainless steel tanks and classic vinification for this 12.5% wine, which is easily enjoyed on a Sunday evening after spending time outdoors.


  • To pair with it: Pappardelle topped with a tomato-based sauce made from braised meat that has simmered all day long... it is Sunday, after all...
  • A little anecdote: The Valpolicella region is said to derive its name from the Latin "Vallis Poli Cellae," which translates to "valley of many cellars."
  • To better understand the Veneto: Keep an eye out for our next tasting workshop on the subject.
  • For comparison: Our Valpolicella Superiore available at Les Cavistes.

Saint-Péray 2022, Pierre Gaillard / $32

For very good friends...

With its 52 planted hectares (out of 110) and 40 producers, it is rare to come across the Saint-Péray AOC on the shelves of the monopoly.

Since the early 80s, Pierre Gaillard has been working his 25 hectares spread across 6 appellations to produce 17 different vintages. A family estate with several branches (his children work in Faugères and Collioure in addition to the Rhône), it is one of the pillars of the region.


As the southernmost appellation of the Northern Rhône, Saint-Péray benefits from the influence of the warm southern climate while retaining the advantages of the characteristic northern soils. This wine from the Gaillard family, covering 1.7 hectares, offers a blend of Marsanne (70%) and Roussanne planted on granite scree.


Vinification takes place in neutral barrels, followed by malolactic fermentation. It is aged on the lees with the obligatory *bâtonnage* (stirring) to obtain the creaminess characteristic of northern white wines.

Ultimately, a fresh yet aromatic wine where the wood remains only a pleasant memory. On the palate, lightly stewed fruits rest on a balanced framework of saline and iodine notes on the finish.

  • To pair with it: Take out the large white plates to serve unilateral-seared scallops with a *beurre blanc* sauce and confit leeks.
  • A little anecdote: The appellation was on the verge of disappearing in the 1990s when local producers turned to Jaboulet and Chapoutier to revive it.
  • To better understand the Rhône: Keep an eye out for our next tasting workshop on the subject.
  • For comparison: From the same estate in St-Joseph, this time featuring 100% Roussanne.

A great week for new arrivals at the SAQ.

Here are other products we could have also suggested, which will be available starting Thursday:

  • Châteauneuf-du-Pape 'Les Granières' 2020, Château La Nerthe / $44 (15259015)
  • Castel del Monte DOC Trentangeli 2019, Tormaresca, Puglia / $27.50 (15273765)
      

And if you ever want to check out our Cavistes shop selection, just follow the big button!

Have a great week!

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Dégustateur de vin

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196 Fleury West
(corner of Esplanade)
Montreal, QC
514.508.5033

WORKSHOPS & TASTINGS

Robert Herrera
robert@restaurantlescavistes.com

WINES & SPIRITS SOCIETY

Arthur Laflamme
vins@restaurantlescavistes.com