SAQ Rioja DOCa Peña el Gato 2020, Bodegas Juan Carlos Sancha

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Gata tinta!

The existentialism of Rioja according to Juan Carlos Sancha / Louis-Jacques Bleau

The 20th century in Rioja marked the arrival of a school of thought centered on the aging of wines at the expense of their provenance. Beyond Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, one finds in oak barrels a juice with a territorial identity that is too often ignored.

It should be noted that in the 18th century, Rioja typically produced village wines, and before 1912, the region boasted more than 40 distinct grape varieties. Among these, Garnacha accounted for 40% of the vineyard area, but it was massively uprooted, now representing only 8% of the vineyards.

Enter Juan Carlos Sancha, who would be the first to break with this convention and this way of marketing wine.

And it would be in the Najerilla Valley-Rioja Alta, an irreducible terroir that survived ‘the varietal imperialism of Tempranillo,’ to use Juan Carlos’s words. His family owns unique vineyards perched on cool, high hillsides at altitudes of 565–765 m, planted with old, century-old Garnacha vines.

In addition to teaching oenology at the University of La Rioja and rehabilitating forgotten grape varieties of the region, Professor Juan Carlos Sancha pampers his hillside vines using organic farming methods, assisted by a horse for plowing.

The wine is made from 100% century-old Garnacha and is fermented and aged in 500L French oak barrels for 11 months. Juan Carlos is not the dogmatic type when it comes to sulfur and will ensure adequate doses so that the wine travels properly. One could categorize this wine as natural and very stable in its natural state…

The wine is a deep purplish red; on the nose, primary aromas of ripe field fruits predominate (strawberries and raspberries). On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with a tannic structure that is altogether velvety, supported by great freshness. The wine has a long finish. Pay close attention to the serving temperature; serve cool (16–17 degrees Celsius).

• Pairing: Beef picanha with chimichurri,
• Anecdote: To be honest, we must mention that this wine is represented by the agency Les Cavistes/Jéroboam. That said, we didn't force anything; the SAQ product analysts visited Juan Carlos last year and subsequently informed us of an intent to purchase… Some will recall that we had already offered the wine as a private import.
• To better understand Rioja wines: Get on the waiting list for the workshop on the subject this fall.
• To further your thirst for Rioja Garnacha, La Maldita $15 at the SAQ (13807516)