This week at the SAQ #11

The Basque provinces are a fascinating region, with San Sebastian as the capital of pintxos and txakoli. Astobiza is an estate located in the Alava part (northwest) and borders the province of Cantabria (better known for the Rioja appellation).

Wines from the Basque country were renowned until the mid-19th century, when the vineyards produced highly esteemed reds from Alava. When the oidium crisis hit northern Spain, production of wines—mostly white—was concentrated near the ocean to better withstand the disaster. The result was a pivot toward white wines that were low in alcohol, highly acidic, and slightly fizzy.

If we stopped the description here, you might think of Portuguese Vinho Verde, and you wouldn't be far off. However, and fortunately, modern winemaking and continental influences make this txakoli an excellent introduction to this fascinating region.

The local grape varieties, Hondarrabi Zuri and Zuratie, will ring a bell for both Scrabble lovers and fans of Southwestern wines. Since this small part of the region (100ha) produces rounder and smoother wines, you will be less startled by the tension and acidity that one might normally find in the appellation. Aromas of green apple, young peach, and Anjou pear support the minerality and freshness.

If one day you are hesitating between a Riesling or a tense Chenin from the Touraine, this Basque wine will fit very well in the middle.

• To accompany it: Mussels in escabeche that you make with an excellent wine vinegar so as not to kill the... wine.
• For the anecdote: If you want to show off your "wine bar" skills, serve the txakoli at arm's length (above your head) to pour the liquid into a flat-bottomed glass on the counter; the goal is to dissipate the wine's natural effervescence. Long beard and tattoos optional...
• To better understand Basque wines: We will offer an aperitif on the subject at the start of the season.
• For an exploration of other txakoli whites from another part of the appellation, you will find this Getariako 2022 from Zudugarai for $22 at the SAQ (15167250)

Even if we like to hate Chardonnay and its subequatorial variations, it must be said that when we pour it, #people generally ask for more.

With this in mind, this Journey’s End will be the perfect companion for entertaining relatives you don't want to overcomplicate things for on a summer evening. Much like a late motel chain of the same name, this Stellenbosch Chardonnay is meant to be inclusive and will please a wide, family audience.

The vines are located near the ocean and are subject to large temperature variations, which allow for a long maturation of the grapes on the vine. In the cellar, various fermentations and aging methods are used (neutral barrels, concrete eggs, amphorae, and others), with lees aging for 9 months and stirring (bâtonnage) that bring this generous mouthfeel. One might fear a "New World" caricature here, but the almost total absence of malolactic fermentation provides an acidity and balance based on zest and a certain salinity.

You will enjoy the citrus and orange blossom notes, as well as the fresh yet balanced palate.

• To accompany it: Chicken thighs marinated in honey and citrus, grilled on the BBQ and served casually.
• For the anecdote: In the summer of 2020, in the middle of the Covid lockdown, the Gabbs (the family behind the vineyard) launched the Journey’s End Foundation with the goal of providing 500,000 meals through a community soup initiative for the most affected areas. One year later, 1 million meals had been prepared thanks to the initiative—double the goal. Everything is still ongoing four years later, as, unlike the pandemic, poverty is still very much a reality in South Africa….
• To better understand Chardonnay: Sign up for the mailing list for the Chardonnay grape variety aperitif at the start of the season.
• For a South African Chardonnay that is just as clean and pleasant but with more pronounced acidity, Whitehall Chardonnay 2020, Neil Ellis, Elgin, South Africa is also available. $33 at the SAQ (14906911)

At the top of the Italian appellation tower, we inevitably find Piedmont, as much for its Barolos as its Barbarescos. The first of these two DOCGs has brought many families to fame, including the one we are interested in this week.

Renato Ratti is, like his generation, a perfect example of this Italy breaking away from traditions to transform its viticulture. Whether through his Burgundian vision of terroir and its crus, or by drawing inspiration from large companies (like Cinzano) to rethink the commercial side of wines, he quickly became a key player in the revival of Piedmont. His Marcenasco cru was revolutionary in the 70s, shifting the emphasis from fermentation and maceration to aging. As Ratti rebelled, Piedmont rose.

Even if we are very far here from the award-winning Nebbiolo, the house's expertise is present in this Dolcetto. From their Mango property (south of Barbaresco) and at the altitude of the Dogliani commune, they produce a fruit-forward red, fresh with cherry, wild raspberry, and hints of anise. The palate is light and crisp. The whole thing is glorious, like an 18th-century Piedmontese soldier!

At 12% alcohol, you won't be surprised to find yourself opening a second bottle…

• To accompany it: A classic beef carpaccio for which you mustn't forget a real parmesan cheese.
• For the anecdote: The bottle for this wine has existed since the 18th century as a way to distinguish wines from the Alba region. In 1973, Renato Ratti revived the idea of identifying the terroir through the bottle and its unique shape. Thus, the Albeisa was reborn.
• To better understand Piedmont: Sign up for the mailing list for the workshop at the start of the season.
• To explore Piedmont one Dolcetto at a time: Dolcetto d’Alba DOC 2022, G.D. Vajra, $25 at the SAQ (13553413)