This week at the SAQ #12

Muscadet isn't what it used to be… Thankfully, for us.

Even though we aren't talking about Melon de Bourgogne and oblong bottles here, the creator behind this pleasant rosé cuvée is quite representative of the Nantes renewal and this rising generation of young winemakers.

After working in the trade for a decade, in 2005, Éric Chevalier returned to his roots by taking over the family estate, which was already a high-volume producer. Since his father was no longer working the vines himself, the vineyard was visibly deteriorating, and Éric had to make some serious choices regarding uprooting and replanting over the following years.

The result is clearly positive, with an organic estate since 2016 that still specializes in Muscadets, but one that flirts with more precise cuvées than the norm and highlights Burgundian grape varieties (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) as well as the near-extinct Fié Gris.

Here we have a 100% Cabernet Franc, organic, with 5 months of aging for a simple and effective wine that, even if shy upon opening, will easily open up with a little exposure.

To drink on a whim with impromptu guests.

• To pair it with: Beautiful slices of prosciutto with melon.
• For the anecdote: The Fié Gris (Sauvignon Gris) grown on the estate is still present on only about thirty hectares in the Loire. It is used to make richer white wines as well as sweet ones.
• To better understand the Loire: We're joining the waiting list for the workshop on the subject this autumn.
• For an exploration of the estate, Éric Chevalier's Muscadet ‘Clos de la Butte’ 2021 for $24 at the SAQ (12686831)

Along with Dao, Bairrada is part of the vast Beiras region located north of the city of Coimbra, halfway between Porto and Lisbon. Like many Portuguese appellations, Bairrada has transitioned from massive production of cooperative wines to micro-estates focused on quality.

This is the case for Tiago Teles, a former wine critic who converted to his family's land when he bought two hectares of vines in the appellation in 2012, with the firm intention of producing wines that highlight the Atlantic climate of these terroirs. The result is a red that is a touch animal, yet supple with grainy tannins. If you want to refine the whole thing, decanting will be necessary.

Don't be intimidated by the blend of Alfrocheiro (75%) and Baga. The former, also known as Tinta Francesa, provides an acid/tannin balance. Baga, for its part, adds crunchy fruit and a minerality reminiscent of grape varieties like Pelaverga or Nebbiolo.

Keep a few bottles in reserve for the hot grilling season and serve it slightly chilled.

• To pair it with: Glazed chicken thighs on the BBQ.
• For the anecdote: The region has been producing wine since the 10th century and focused mainly on powerful reds used for blending into Port wine. In 1743, the Marquis of Pombal, when creating the Porto production zone, had all the vines in Bairrada uprooted to ensure the origin of the grapes...
• To better understand Portugal: We're joining the waiting list for the workshop on the subject this autumn.
• If Baga is to your taste, Bairrada ‘Nat’cool drink me’ nm Niepoort at $21 per liter at the SAQ (14092680) still incredibly available, or The Original Mateus at $11!!!

Some of you may have noticed a series of Bordeaux Methuselahs at the entrance of Les Cavistes. 1970, 1985, 2000, and others parade like a memory of our restaurant's 10th-anniversary party.

The unique thing about these bottles is that they are all from the same estate, Château Patache d’Aux in the Médoc. They were drinking very well in 2022, and we can only rejoice at the arrival of the 2016 vintage this week at the SAQ.

Located 10 kilometers inland from the estuary in the northern Médoc, Château Patache d’Aux has been producing wine since the mid-17th century. Acquired by the Antoine Moueix consortium in 2016 and classified as a Cru Bourgeois, the estate is now oriented toward producing more modern wines.

A classic blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 41% Merlot, supported by Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, we are dealing here with a classic Bordeaux red featuring notes of black fruit and anise, with a rich and long palate supported by silky tannins. We are delighted to enjoy this '16 vintage, which is even more remarkable after 8 years of waiting.

• To pair it with: Grilled hanger steak and sautéed mushrooms.
• For the anecdote: The Patache d’Aux carriage is part of the history of the Médoc. The term "patache" actually means a stagecoach in the local patois.
• To better understand Bordeaux: We're joining the waiting list for the workshop on the subject this autumn.
• To go further into 2016, you can get this Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois 2016, Château Lamothe-Bergeron for $30 at the SAQ (14887634)