This week at the SAQ #13

It’s no longer a secret to you: we have a natural affinity for Italian whites which, even if unknown to amateurs, are often excellent surprises in the glass.

This Roero Arneis is no exception, with an explosion of fruit and flowers balanced by a subtle minerality. It is crafted by a biodynamic pioneer in the region, Sergio Marchiso, who works in a "modern" way with his some 20 hectares, mostly of Arneis.

Whether for Nebbiolo or Barbera, in amphorae or stainless steel tanks, or for his traditional-method spumante, you will have surprising wines on your tongue from this estate, especially for the Roero.

It is worth noting that even if it is fashionable today, the Piedmontese grape variety Arneis was originally planted between rows of Nebbiolo. The reason was that since it ripened more quickly, its sweet berries attracted the birds, which thus left the precious Nebbiolo in peace.

It wasn't until the end of the 1960s that the Vietti family produced a dry wine version by mistake (usually, this grape was used to make sweet wine or vermouth), which would become a critical and commercial success. Today, the appellation produces nearly 7 million bottles.

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  To pair with it: Linguine with shrimp and scallops in a cream and cheese sauce.
• Fun fact: Before becoming a sought-after grape variety, Arneis was called nebbia bianca, or "white Nebbiolo"...
• To better understand Piedmont wines: Get on the waiting list for the workshop on the subject this fall.
• To discover the estate behind the variety's renaissance: Roero Arneis docg 2022, Vietti $31 at the SAQ (14556114)

The 20th century in Rioja marked the arrival of a school of thought focused on wine aging at the expense of their origin. Beyond Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, one finds in oak barrels a juice with a territorial identity that is too often ignored.

It is worth knowing that in the 18th century, Rioja used to produce village wines, and before 1912, the region had more than 40 distinct grape varieties. Among these, Garnacha represented 40% of the vineyard area, but it was massively uprooted, and now represents only 8% of the vineyards.

Then came Juan Carlos Sancha, who was the first to break this convention and this way of marketing wine.

And it happened in the Najerilla Valley in Rioja Alta, an irreducible terroir that survived the "varietal imperialism of Tempranillo," to use Juan Carlos's words. His family owns unique vineyards perched on high, cool slopes at 565–765 meters in altitude, planted with old, century-old Garnacha vines.

In addition to teaching oenology at the University of La Rioja and rehabilitating forgotten grape varieties of the region, Professor Juan Carlos Sancha pampers his hillside vines using organic farming methods, aided by a horse for plowing.

The wine is made from 100% century-old Garnacha and is fermented and aged in 500L French oak barrels for 11 months. Juan Carlos is not the dogmatic type when it comes to talking about sulfur, and he ensures the doses are adequate for the wine to travel properly. We can categorize this wine as "natural" and of a very stable nature...

The wine is a deep purplish red; on the nose, primary aromas of ripe wild berries predominate (strawberries and raspberries). On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with a tannic structure that is altogether velvety, supported by great freshness. The wine has a long finish. Pay particular attention to the serving temperature: serve chilled (16-17 degrees Celsius).

• To pair with it: Beef picanha with chimichurri.
• Fun fact: To be honest, we must mention that this wine is represented by the Cavistes' agency, Jéroboam. That said, we didn't force anything; the SAQ product analysts visited Juan Carlos last year and subsequently informed us of their intent to purchase... Some will remember that we had already offered the wine in private import, by the way.
• To better understand Rioja wines: Get on the waiting list for the workshop on the subject this fall.
• To satisfy your thirst for Rioja Garnacha: La Maldita $15 at the SAQ (13807516)

Imagine for a moment: you’re spending some quality time on TikTok on a weeknight... when suddenly, you see an Asian influencer making a toast with white port! You might be behind on the trend, right? Well, drink easy—by reading this newsletter, that’s not likely to happen!

Of course, it would be quite illusory for the oldest port house, Nicolau Kopkë, established in 1638, to make social media headlines. But never mind that; at $20 a bottle, you’d be crazy to "swipe left" on this blend of Malvasia and four other traditional grape varieties, which, while sitting at 20% alcohol like its regional peers, will surprise you with its dried fruits, spices, and especially a higher-than-normal acidity, making it more digestible.

Gone are the 90s and the Phaneuf guide of yesteryear, which valued fortified wines to excess. This one will be a very pleasant nod to the end of a meal or an invigorating aperitif, confirming your reputation as an avant-gardist!

• To pair with it: It depends on your desire to drink it with or without tonic, so it would be with dried fish or a semi-firm washed-rind cheese.
• Fun fact: 2005 is as memorable a year for the web as it is for white port, with the creation of YouTube...
• To better understand sweet wines: Get on the waiting list for the workshop on the subject in the winter of '25.
• If you feel ready for a trip back in time, let yourself be tempted by this 2002 Colheita from the same house! $70 at the SAQ (15099787)