This week at the SAQ #21

It is quite rare to begin a presentation of a Chilean vineyard by mentioning that the family has been producing wine since 1750! It gives a whole new meaning to "New World"... For the Echeverria family, we will point out that they arrived from the Basque Country in the 18th century, but we should specify that they really got serious in 1930 when they chose to move away from the capital, Santiago, to settle in the Curico Valley, some two hundred kilometers away.

Today, they cultivate around thirty international varieties there, with a shift toward the export market since the 90s, when Chilean wines were revolutionizing the concept of "affordable wines." The ‘No es Pituko’ project highlights the natural terroir of the Curico Valley, which is a long, fertile corridor between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean. A perfect environment in terms of climate and diurnal/nocturnal temperature variations allows for a long maturation on the vine and organic farming.

Aware of these benefits, we will forgive the winery’s Viognier for its cloudy appearance and instead rejoice in its stone fruit flavors supported by a touch of citrus. The palate is fresh, indicating minimal intervention in the cellar, yet still textured by aging on the lees. In the end, a fairly complex wine that will surprise both fans of natural wines and lovers of well-made wines…

• · Pairing suggestion: fried eggplant with a gribiche sauce,
• · Fun fact: No es Pituko means "it's not complicated" in the regional Spanish slang,
• · To better understand Viogniers from all horizons: join the waiting list for our next seasonal happy hour.
• · To stay in the Southern Hemisphere with Viognier, the Viognier ‘Vida Organica Sauvage’ 2023, La Agricola, Mendoza $17 at the SAQ (14494611)

Thomas Bachelder is a name that resonates with fans of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Burgundy, Oregon, and Niagara. This friendly, big Quebecer left journalism to study viticulture and oenology in Beaune and has become a landmark figure in wine over the last two decades. If you hear less about his Oregon and Burgundy wines, it’s quite normal, as he now concentrates his activities around Niagara and his winemaking cellar, which he affectionately calls his "Bat Cave."

For several years, he has been striving to map, analyze, and elevate the greatest terroirs of Niagara through Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and most recently, Gamay. This monastic work allows us today to better understand the nuances along the Niagara Peninsula.

His trading business leads him to purchase grapes from the finest plots, vinify as naturally as possible, and once fermentation is complete, select the barrels that express themselves best to make great "cru" terroir wines, and then create "village" and "communal" cuvées.

It is precisely this week that a communal Pinot Noir cuvée, ‘Parfum de Niagara’, will be available at the SAQ.

It is a blend of several terroirs from across the peninsula, with a high concentration of Pinots from the escarpment, a prime terroir for this grape. The 2021 vintage was cool and dry; the wines are more restrained and refined. The bouquet is dominated by aromas of ripe red fruits (raspberries and cherry pit) supported by a framework of allspice and loamy earth.

Thomas's wines are always accessible upon release because he knows how to wait for them. You will enjoy drinking it young, but you could also forget a few bottles in the cellar until the end of the Harris presidency...

• Pairing suggestion: grilled Caesar salad with chicken and Pecorino,
• Fun fact: Thomas is responsible for the birth of one of the first renowned wines of Niagara: the Clos Jordanne de Jordan,
• To better understand Pinot Noir: join the waiting list for our next seasonal happy hour.
• To explore Bachelder further, the Gamay ‘L’Insouciant’ 2020 is still available for $24 at the SAQ (14822363)

This Domaine de la Marinière is yet another family story. In the east of the appellation, the Desbourdes family has been producing wine since 1965 on 14 hectares, essentially focusing only on Cabernet Franc. The third generation, headed by Boris Desbourdes, converted the estate to organic farming a few years ago and now showcases the three major terroirs of the Chinon area.

This ‘vieilles vignes’ comes specifically from limestone and flint-clay hillsides, showing how the appellation can be traditional while simultaneously adopting modern and bold winemaking. Even though '21 was a difficult vintage (spring frosts), one can appreciate the mastery in the grape handling.

In the end, it is a red with notes of blackcurrant and raspberries on the nose, and an ample, almost plump palate supported by fine tannins and beautiful acidity. Very pleasant to drink with just enough complexity to keep things interesting.

• Pairing suggestion: it’s time to take out your beautiful yellow tomatoes and make them spectacular in the form of a tomato Tatin,
• Fun etymological fact: the Desbourdes vineyard is located in the village of Panzoult, which was formerly part of the Barjot family lordship until the revolution…
• To better understand the Loire vineyard: join the waiting list for our workshop next season.
• For more Loire in 100% Cabernet Franc, our Anjou 2022, Domaine du Petit Clocher at $33 on our boutique.